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12 Hours in Kolkata


When I was booking my tickets for travelling back home post BMC, I had realized I would be having fourteen hours in Kolkata between two trains. Right then I had decided to make best use of this time, but I hadn’t made any concrete plans.

Having been in Kolkata twice before this occasion, almost all the listed tourist spots were done for.  During the Basic Mountaineering Course, I had quick chats with some of the people who were citizens of Kolkata, but nothing fruitful had come up.

During the October stay in Kolkata before course, I and Vivek had visited Indian Museum and I hadn’t carried my camera inside for reasons unknown to me. So, I had another visit to the museum on my mind. But this definitely was not a full day activity.  Also, I wanted to spend some time alone, so I actually avoided rescheduling my tickets.

On the morning of November 10, 2014, the batch of BMC 304 graduated from Himalayan Mountaineering Institute.The photo session lasted for an hour or more. We bid adieu to each other by early evening. And I was on my way to New Jalpaigudi by 4 PM.

Since last few months, I have caught of disease of being punctual. Hence, there I was at NJP station waiting for the train to Kolkata which was delayed by an hour and half. Starting late meant reaching late, hence, the train delay had already cut off an hour and half from my time in Kolkata.

The train arrived in Kolkata at about 9 AM. I had slept well during the night but the tiredness from the course hadn’t gone. I was carrying a big backpack of some 20 kgs and I didn’t want to carry it all around in Kolkata. Hence, from Sealdah, I took a prepaid cab to Howrah Junction. I checked in my big backpack at the cloak room and carried the day pack. When I walked out of Howrah Junction, there was only one question on my mind... What Next?!?

After a brief thought I decided to head to the Indian Museum to take photos which I had missed during first visit. But the cab driver had different plans. He dropped me at Rabindra Sadan and gave me an opportunity to take my morning walk. During the walk, at Chowranghee, I came across the big food store of Haldiram’s and I recollected that I have tummy too. The time was well past 10:30, so a brunch was definitely called for. I ordered chhole Bhature which was really tummy full. I also checked out the mithai on their shelves and
noted that I should come back for the shopping before leaving the Metro.

From here I walked to Indian Museum. This time I made it a point to take my camera inside. The collection of historic exhibits at this museum is explicit and precious. Although, I am not an expert of history, I like visiting monuments and imagining how things would have been then.  Having visited the museum earlier, I knew which sections I wanted to visit and which ones I didn’t want to. When I finally walked out of the museum, time was 1:15 PM. I still had complete 8 hours before reporting at Howrah Junction for departure.

Meantime, facebook friends had poured suggestions on my question. One suggestion was to take a walk on college street. Knowing myself well, I had always avoided college street during all my visits. I didn’t want to spend away all my money on books and die hungry. Seeing the suggestion, I resolved to myself that I would not buy any book and just look around and started walked towards college street. When I asked for directions, people gave the directions and also suggested taking a cab. I had decided to walk. I walked and walked and then I saw a Tram! I always wanted to take that Tram ride. This was the Time of my life and I wanted to cash the opportunity and I got into the Tram. This was the best ride of my life.

When I got into the Tram, the conductor asked where I wanted to go, I said I don’t have any specific destination and he may charge me till the last station. He gave a ticket worth Rs. 5 and told me that I can get down anywhere I want.  The lady sitting next to me inquired what I was up to. During the chat she suggested getting down at BBD Bag and trying out some Kesar ras malai at K C Das opposite the station.  So my next destination was decided.



At K.C Das, the Kesar Ras Malai experience was not only delicious but also fulfilling as the people at K.C. Das were kind and thoughtful.  When I inquired at the sales  counter for directions to college street, the guy suggested taking the Tram from the station opposite the shop.





Now, I was experienced for Tram ride, the ticket was Rs. 5 and when I inquired how long it would take, the conductor snapped back, you should have lots of time if you want to go in the Tram. However, in 10 minutes, I was at College Street. Seeing so many book shops at one place, I felt as if I am in paradise and bankrupt by all means.  One of my colleagues messaged that College Street is Asia’s biggest books market. I walked here and there, browsed through shops.

I was thinking of buying newly released “Playing it my Way”, Sachin Tendulkar’s Autobiography, and suddenly I saw a hoarding, “Sri Aurobindo PathMandir”. I re-read to confirm. Yes, it was that place. All my thoughts vanished as I paced in trance towards the entrance.

The Entrance leads you to a staircase, the wall on left side holds the information of rooms inside the mandir and the wall on the right side bears the message from Sri Aurobindo. I was in trance when I climbed the steps. At the stilt floor, there is a counter for selling books. When I approached the lady at the counter she told me the books available were related only to Sri Aurobindo. I told her that was the exact reason why I was there. She seemed pleased with the reply and handed me a catalogue. I went through the catalogue and requested her to give me “The Life Divine”. She asked why I was buying that book. The bi-lingual conversation was getting interesting. I told her about my upbringing and schooling and shared the list of books on my cell phone. Seeing the name of this book on my list she was surprised.

When I was a kid, the renowned speaker Dr. Shivajirao Bhosale was holding lectures in town and there was a lecture on Sri Aurobindo and during the lecture he had given a few references from this book. Since then this book was on my list.

Me and Aunty chatted further and she told me that now a lot people don’t study Bangla and most of the education happens in English Medium Schools. The future of literature in Bangla language doesn’t seem bright. She also mentioned that she was glad to see me making efforts to learn Bangla. During the entire conversation she was speaking in Bangla and I was replying in Bangla supported by English.
When I was bidding adieu, she invited me to the PathMandir on my next visit to Kolkata. She also warned that I should get back to Howrah Junction before it gets lonely on the streets. I promised her that I will be safe.

When I came back on street, it was 4:30 PM and it had started getting dark. So I again took Tram to the station of origin. The conductor suggested getting down at Central Metro Station and taking the metro to Esplanade.

I re-visited Haldiram’s, ate huge Masala Dosa and purchased Rasgullas of three different flavours. They had six flavours on menu. When I looked at the range of sweets they were offering, I was left spellbound.
I asked a guy at the counter for instructions to Babu Ghat. He told me to take a city bus from the bus station opposite the shop. But crossing the street was a major task and like every time it was the task of the day! I succeeded after around 10 minutes.

The bus journey was fun as the conductor thought I was a non-resident Bangla woman and tried to chat with me.  Like the aunty at the sales counter at Sri Aurobindo Path Mandir the conversation continued. He wished me good luck when I got down at Babu Ghat bus station.

As it was long past sunset, I was expecting to see the lights of Howrah Bridge. However, when I got into the ferry, the Howrah Bridge was still dark and the illuminated Howrah Junction was looked fabulous on the opposite bank of Hoogly River.

The ferry ride is a quick 10 minutes affair. I waited at the jetty near Howrah Junction for the lights of Howrah Bridge for some time and made my way to Howrah Junction.

The trains to Pune usually depart from platforms at the new complex. I still had some 2 hours to spare hence I went to explore other platforms. The rush on the platforms meant for local trains suggested I should go and rest.

I made my way to New Complex’s upper class waiting room and rested for some time before getting into Azad Hind Express. 

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